Today's brushless racing introduced new variables (mechanical timing, speedo timing, RPM ranges, rotor diameters) on top of the rollout variable. The new McPappy Racing DIY Brushless Dyno helps you to make sense of some of that. This dyno platform will allow you to test your motors against a brushless slave motor that provides consistent resistance from test to test.

The RC dyno can provide 5 styles of testing:

• Chassis dyno testing
• Direct coupler in between both motors
• Direct coupler with flywheel in between both motors
• Offset motors using 2 pinions
• Offset motors using 2 pinions + flywheel

The flywheel provides inertia resistance and the brushless slave provides constant resistance. Together they reproduce similar track resistance.  The key component to this dyno platform is a huge peice of 1/4" 6061 aluminum which acts as a giant heat sink. Two large fans and all of that aluminum mass will bring the temperture of the motors and resistors back down to room temperature very quickly.  This allows you to run many tests very quickly.  To find your most powerful motor and speedo combination is actually quite simple. Your overall goal is to spin the flywheel and slave motor as fast as you can with the least amount of amp draw. The McPappy Racing DIY Brushless Dyno can help you do just that. You will be able to find your strongest motors and most efficient combination of  mechanical timing, speedo timing, RPM ranges, and rotor diameters.

Full details to the McPappy Racing DIY Brushless Dyno can be seen here.

The kits will be offered in 2 versions: with or without the rear axle assembly. We've designed the motor bulkhead adapter to be able to accommodate most motor bulkheads (1/10th or 1/12th).  So if you have an old pan car, you can use it's bulkheads, and the rear axle assembly and choose the lower cost kit.

The items to the right side of the picture and in italics below come with the full kit with the rear axle assembly.

(1)  1/4" thick 6061 aluminum dyno base
(4)  6061 aluminum reversable motor mounts
(1)  2.45" diameter 6061 aluminum precision flywheel with set screws
(6)  Chassis Dyno Support Legs
(1)  Chassis Dyno Bulkhead Adapter
(1)  Chassis Dyno Acrylic Main Bed
(1)  Chassis Dyno Acrylic Bed Extension
(1)  1/8" Precision ground, tight tolerance, hardened steel pinion shaft
(3)  Oversized Resistors
(2)  92mm x 25mm Sunon Brushless 2-15V DC fans (high output 2Watts, 3000RPM, 51 CFM)
(2)  Carbon fiber braces
(4)  1/8" collars with set screws
(1)  4" flex tubing
(2)  Brass Hinges
(10) 4-40 Locknuts
(8)  4-40 Nuts
(4)  4-40 aluminum standoffs
(26) 4-40 Panhead 1/2 Screws
(2)  4-40 Panhead 1/4 Screws
(4)  4-40 Panhead 3/8 Screws
(4)  4-40 Sockethead 1 3/4
(8)  4-40 x 1-1/2" socket head screws
(14) 4-40 Sockethead 1/2
(4)  4-40 1-3/4" Sockethead
(3)  6-32 Panhead 1/2
(3)  6-32 Wing Nuts
(3)  Angle Brackets
(4)  Rubber sticky back feet.
(4)  Zip Ties
(1)  Left Bulkhead
(1)  Right Bulkhead
(2)  Left Hub
(2)  BSR Cap Tires - S Pink Net Radial
(2)  Axle Bearings
(2)  Rear Axle Shim
(1)  Rear Axle Spacer
(2)  Rear Wheel Cap Tire
(2)  Ride Height Adjuster
(1)  Axle Shaft
(1)  Spur Gear Axle Adapter
(1)  Spur Gear 100T
(8)  4-40 Washer .030"

Requirements
You will need to provide a brushless slave motor (21.5 is excellent, but 17.5 will work as well) and some sort of electronics to determine RPM and Amp draw. This could be as inexpensive as an airplane tachometer and 10 gauge copper wire home-made amp draw meter, but if you want something better, we recommend the Eagle Tree eLogger V4 with the LCD panel so you don't need a computer to see the results. You don't need to buy all of their attachments, only the logger, panel and your choice of the brushless RPM sensor, magnetic RPM sensor, or optical RPM sensor. Another good option is the Novak Sentry Data Logger (Part # S2010N), although the Sentry does require a computer.